ACCRA, Ghana – I have been a W.E. B. DuBois fanatic since learning
as a student at Druid High School in Tuscaloosa, Ala. that he actively
opposed the accommodationist views of Booker T. Washington. I was even
more elated when I discovered that DuBois and I shared the same
birthday – February 23. Naturally, I was excited when I found out
that during last week’s trip to Ghana, I would get a chance to visit
the W. E. B. DuBois Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture, which
encompasses the grave and former home of my intellectual hero. Before
the visit, Jesse Jackson hard urged me to brace myself for what I would
see; he predicted that I would be disappointed with the condition of
the memorial to DuBois. He was correct. Even with lowered
expectations, I was shocked at how much his former residence had been
allowed to deteriorate. The front of the compound has dirt rather than
grass, The long, one-story house resembles a section of Army barracks
more than a dwelling, And the tin roof and dangling outside wiring do
nothing to improve the esthetics. A small, golden bust of DuBois
rests atop a marble pedestal that stands about five feet tall. A plaque
below bares the sparse inscription: “William Edward B. DuBois
1868-1963.” That’s all it says. Nowhere is there a clue of what he did
between 1968 and 1963. It doesn’t say that he was one of the
most influential figures of the 20th century, it doesn’t say he was the
father of Pan-Africanism, it doesn’t say he received a Ph.D. from
Harvard in 1895, it doesn’t say his Philadelphia Negro was the first
scientific study of African-Americans, it doesn’t say that his Souls of
Black Folk is still applicable today, it doesn’t say that he was an
uncompromising editor of The Crisis magazine and it doesn’t say his own
U.S. government harassed him for his uncompromising views. No, all it
says is, “William Edward B. DuBois 1868-1963.” I’ve read widely and
I’ve never seen his name written that way. Usually, it’s either W.E. B.
DuBois or William Edward Burghardt DuBois. DuBois had been
invited to spend his final years in Ghana by Kwame Nkrumah, the
nation’s first president. As the father of Pan-Africanism and Nkrumah’s
mentor, it was only fitting that DuBois would be buried in the
Motherland. It is not fitting that the grounds that he once walked are
an embarrassing testament to him. The inside of his former home,
the center of the compound’s activities, is equally unimpressive.
DuBois, a native of Great Barrington, Mass., donated his papers to the
University of Massachusetts. There are only a few mementos housed here.
Various academic gowns are on display in one room, including the one he
wore months before his death when he received an honorary doctorate
from the University of Ghana. There are also robes from Fisk
University, his undergraduate alma mater; Clark Atlanta University
(DuBois conducted pioneering research on African-Americans at Atlanta
University) and Harvard. There are some other valuable items in this
room, including a signed copy of a book from Albert Einstein and
original copies of the Crisis magazine, the feisty forerunner of Encore
and Emerge magazines. DuBois’ study, filled with two walls of his
books, does not have climate control or on this day, air conditioning.
The main hall, just outside DuBois’ office, features a nondescript wall
that carries a large photo of DuBois, two smaller ones of Nkrumah, and
two sheets of paper. They are hung against a long piece of Kente cloth
under the heading, “The Influence of Pan-Africanism on Nkrumah and
Ghana’s Independence.” Outside, less than 30 yards from the main
building, is a mausoleum that houses DuBois and the ashes of his wife,
Shirley. Shaped like a gazebo, the wood-paneled room has several
African stools. DuBois is entombed under a granite rectangle slab that
slopes at the lower end of the body. Visitors have left flowers, notes
and a banner from Clark Atlanta University stretches across the top. Anne
V. Adams, a former associate professor at Cornell University in Ithaca,
N.Y., is the center’s program director. Still shaken by the conditions,
Jesse Jackson agreed to buy a badly-needed generator and help raise
additional funds; several of us made financial pledges and
contributions. Jackson criticized both the Ghanaian government and
Blacks for not doing more to preserve the center. (Contributions can be
sent to the center at P.O. Box CT 975, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. Her
e-mail address is ava@webdubois-gh.org.) Considering all that DuBois has done for us, the least we can do is properly preserve his memory.
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