CAIRO, Egypt – After stepping out of the famed Egyptian Museum here
and walking next door to the Coffee Shop Restaurant, a visitor is
likely to meet Khaled Osman Mohamed, the manager. Khaled bears a
striking resemblance to my cousin Walter Lynn Stuart, who lives in
Nashville. Each is tall and slender, they have similar complexions and
heads that could be politely described as follically-challenged. If
you ask Khaled to describe himself, he says without hesitation, “I’m
Nubian.” When pressed, the Cairo-born manager says he is proud to be an
Egyptian, but even prouder to be a Nubian, a term associated with
dark-skinned people and a region along the Nile that joins Egypt and
its southern neighbor, Sudan. The city of Aswan, with its
impressive skyline and chocolate-covered people, is the center of
Nubian culture. A pamphlet published by the Egyptian Tourist Authority
observes: “Here, the Nile is at its most beautiful, flowing through
amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands covered in palm
groves and tropical plants.” But Nubia reeks of more than post-card beauty. The
first published reference to the term “Nubia” was by the Greek author
Strabo in “Geographica.” He had visited the region in 29 B.C. and
researchers believe Nubian is a derivative of the Egyptian word nub,
meaning gold, for which the region is famous. But the history of the
region dates back to 6000 B.C. Beginning around 1971 B.C., the region
became known as Kush; the Kushites served as middlemen in the
flourishing trade between Mediterranean countries and Africa. Four
Kushite kings ruled Egypt for 50 years during the 25th Dynasty. As
one of my fellow journalists noted, walk around Aswan today you’ll meet
yourself coming and going. If you don’t see anyone who resembles you,
look around and you’ll undoubtedly spot someone who looks like a
college roommate, a childhood friend or a co-worker. In Cairo,
an African-American is likely to be greeted as “cousin” by merchants
trying to collect American dollars. By the time you get to Aswan, Black
Americans are upgraded to “Brotha” and “Sisster.” There is an unbroken,
and largely unspoken, link between the two peoples that neither slavery
nor the Atlantic Ocean could sever. Khaled introduced several
of us to Hamdy Soliman Oushy, a Nubian who received his masters and
doctorate degrees in agriculture from New Mexico State University. At a
Nubian culture center in Cairo, where fellow Nubians meet each week to
socialize and keep the past alive, Oushy points to a colorful painting
that stretches around the room. Nubians are seen walking, working, and
interacting. Much of that history has been submerged – literally.
In 1960, the High Dam was built, a 2-mile engineering phenomenon that
provides electricity and irrigation for the nation. While the Egyptian
government raved about the construction of the dam, not everyone was
not pleased with the country’s version of urban renewal. “Everything
we had is now under water,” Oushy explains. “Our houses, our dead, our
villages. My dream is to go back there one day and to have a house.” He
also realizes that with each passing year, that becomes less likely to
happen. Relocated to large urban areas, such as Cairo, Nubians
still hold a special place in their hearts for their native land and
for African-Americans who visit Egypt. Khaled, for example, gave
his family a two-hour notice that he was bringing a half-dozen Black
journalists he had just met home for dinner. His family, like many, has
shared an apartment building for years. That alone helps account for
the strong family tie. Khaled’s family embraced us as their own, making
sure we had plenty to eat and that we were comfortable in their home. Khaled
has visited Winston-Salem, N.C. twice within the past decade, mostly to
lecture about Nubian culture. He is familiar with all of the American
sports and entertainment icons, from Michael Jackson to Michael Jordan. “Everyone
think Americans are rich,” says Khaled, who loves to joke. “Don’t tell
them you’re from America. Tell them you’re from Sudan.” He and
his family speak proudly about their Nubian culture, how Nubians are
known for their honesty and taking care of one another. When asked earlier in the day what he missed about the United States, Khaled replied, “Seafood and Chinese food.” At the mention of Chinese food, everyone groaned. Later, Khaled suddenly remembered: “There is something that I miss more than anything else.” And what is that? “C.P. Time,” he said, with a big laugh. When
I heard Khaled longing for Colored People’s time, a less sophisticated
way of saying fashionably late, I knew I had indeed found my Nubian
brother.
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