Black History Month has produced an indispensible gift: Charles E.
Cobb Jr.’s guided tour of civil rights landmarks. His new book, “On the
Road to Freedom: A Guided Tour of the Civil Rights Trail” (Algonquin
Books of Chapel Hill, N.C.), brings the Movement back to life for both
young and old. No collection of civil rights books is complete without
Charlie Cobbs’ new masterpiece. Our journey begins in Washington,
D.C., the author’s hometown. Cobbs fittingly opens this chapter with a
1906 quote from Mary Church Terrell: “…Nowhere in the world do
oppression and persecution based solely on the color of the skin appear
more hateful and hideous than in the capital of the United States,
because the chasm between the principles upon which this Government was
founded, in which it still professes to believe, and those which are
daily practiced under the protection of the flag, yawns so wide and
deep.” One can never look at Constitution Hall the same after
realizing that the Daughters of the American Revolution, owners of the
facility, refused to let singer Marian Anderson perform there in 1939
because of her race. Led by outraged First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt, the
event was switched to the Lincoln Memorial, where 75,000 people saw
Anderson perform. Taking us along the corridors of the U.S.
Capitol, our tour guide writes, “…Enslaved black people formed over
half the labor force that built it. These slaves worked Virginia
quarries, digging and transporting the stone for the Capitol. They
baked bricks, dug ditches, hauled logs, and performed every task
requiring strenuous manual labor, but their ‘owners’ were paid for
their work.” A few blocks away, the old Charles Hotel on the
northeast corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and 3rd Street, now John
Marshall Square, “quickly became a favorite of buyers in town to
purchase slaves,” Cobbs writes. “Its basement contained six,
30-foot-long arched holding cells that extended underneath Pennsylvania
Avenue. Iron grates at street level provided air and a bit of sunlight.
The hotel advertised the iron rings embedded in its walls and promised
to reimburse guests the ‘full value’ of slaves who managed to escape.”
He noted, “Except for the government, slave trading was the city’s
largest industry.” Later this year, the first national museum
dedicated to slavery, is scheduled to open in Fredericksburg, Va. The
290,000-square-foot museum will contain a replica of a Portuguese slave
ship. Of course, Cobbs takes us through “Sweet Auburn” Avenue and
the King Historical District in Atlanta. One of the strengths of the
book is that it takes us to unfamiliar places as well. The author notes
that the Student Non-Violent Coordinating Committee (SNCC) was first
housed in a corner of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference
headquarters at 208 Auburn Avenue. But there are no historical markers
indicating that the first SNCC offices were at 197 Auburn Avenue and
then 135 Auburn. The Rosa Parks Library and Museum and Dr.
King’s old church are covered in the Montgomery, Ala. tours. But Cobbs
makes sure we don’t miss the Civil Rights Memorial and Visitors Center
at 400 Washington Avenue. While not part of the 1950s bus boycott
movement, the memorial contains the names of 40 civil rights martyrs
that died between 1954 and 1968. “In Lowndes County [Ala.], one
of the most creative campaigns for black political power took hold,”
Cobbs writes. “Comic books were designed and distributed explaining the
duties of all county officers. One comic book tracks the growing
political awareness of a ‘Mr. Blackman,’ who, in the end, registers to
vote and becomes sheriff. It is here that we see the roots of [Stokely’
Carmichael’s call for Black Power.” In addition to the Pettus
Bridge and other notable sites in Selma, Ala., Cobbs takes us to the
home of legendary activists Samuel and Amelia Boynton at 1315 Lapsley
Street. The author says “though always a target in the crosshairs of
racists, [it] was also sanctuary for SNCC and SCLC movement organizers.” The
major battlefields in Birmingham, the Mississippi Delta and Memphis are
all covered in great detail. But it is the intimate exchanges, some
never previously reported, that makes this book so rich. Cobbs
recalls, “Lawrence Guyot, who later became chair of the Mississippi
Freedom Democratic Party – challenged me when I explained that I was
just passing through on the way to a civil rights workshop in Texas. “’Civil
rights workshop in Texas!’ Guyot sneared, giving me a hard look. Guyot
is a big guy and he hovered over me, forceful, disdainful. ‘Tell me
just what’s the point of going to Texas for a workshop on civil rights
when you’re standing right here in Mississippi?’” Cobbs never
made it to Texas. And because he chose to remain active in the
movement, there is no person better qualified to serve as our civil
rights tour guide.
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