MILOT, Haiti – When Ron Daniels invited me accompany his Haiti
Support Project’s pilgrimage to the cities of Milot, Cap-Haitien and
Port-au-Prince last week, I had mixed feelings. I have traveled around
the world, but my trips to the Pyramids in Egypt and the Door of No
Return on Goree Island in Senegal were the most memorable – and
emotional. I had no doubt that a trip to Haiti would also strike a
special chord. Since childhood, my stepfather had told me how
Toussaint L’ouverture led a successful slave uprising against the
French, paving the way in 1804 for Haiti to become the first
independent Black nation in the Western hemisphere. The invitation to
visit an island where Africans were dropped off before slave ships
continued the journey north was irresistible. We all Africans, whether
living in Haiti or the U.S. But that’s not how we’re labeled.
Usually, when public officials or leaders mention Haiti, they
invariably describe it as “the poorest nation in the Western
hemisphere.” With most Haitians earning only $2 a day, I didn’t know
how I would react to seeing such massive poverty. In talking with
Joseph Leonard, executive director of the National Black Leadership
Forum, I learned that he, too, was experiencing the same kind of
conflicting emotions. We wanted to see Haiti, but we really didn’t want
to see the poverty. After a 4-hour flight from New York’s John F.
Kennedy Airport aboard American Airlines Flight #837 to Toussaint
L’Overture International Airport in Port-au-Prince, we transferred to
small puddle jumper for the 30-minute trip north to Cap-Haitien. We
attended a reception that night hosted by Minister of Tourism Patrick
Delatour, a graduate of Howard University. The next morning, we were
bussed 30 miles to Milot (pronounced Mi-lo) and that’s when we really
got a look at abject poverty. Although the poverty may be more
concentrated in Haiti, it is not noticeably different from the poverty
I had observed in Senegal, Nigeria, Egypt or the backroads of Cuba. But
seeing so many people – children in particular – being so poor prompted
two immediate actions. First, I realized that poor people back home,
even those living in the South Bronx and the Mississippi Delta, the two
poorest regions in the United States, seem wealthy when measured
against the typical Haitian. Second, as I looked into the innocent eyes
of children, I couldn’t help but think: Suppose I had been born here?
What could I realistically expect from life? After reflecting, you
thank God for your blessings. In general, children are the same
regardless of where they live. Here, they are curious, they wave
eagerly at the sight of tourists and, more than in the U.S., they run
around in their bare birthday suits. Also surprising was the
age at which some kids are expected to carry out chores. I saw several
girls who appeared to be no older than 5 years old, carrying buckets of
water. I saw some, appearing to be 7 or 8, balancing large items from
the market on their head. Much has been written about the dire
poverty in Haiti, but rarely are articles written about the creativity
or ingenuity of the people. There are talented artists living in every
region of the country and they are eager to negotiate an acceptable
price for their works. The arts and crafts are impressive. And if I
were to count people in Haiti who tried to sell me something rather
than seek a handout, the entrepreneurs would lead at least by a 4-to-1
margin. Carvings. Fruits. Paintings. Beads. Jewelry boxes. Knives.
Canes. You name it, they had it. Ron Daniels, Black America’s
unofficial at-large ambassador to Haiti, had a two-fold goal for this
mission. One, was take 50 people with him to see for themselves what
Haiti is like in hopes of making them ambassadors and announce a “model
city’ program in which the Haiti Support Project would adopt Milot and
actively aid in its economic and educational development. Because
of the consistent work of the Haiti Support Project, led by Ron Daniels
and his wife, Mary, the touring African-American guests were given
access to the highest levels of government. Legislative leaders and
cabinet ministers attended receptions in the group’s honor; Janet
Sanderson, the U.S. Ambassador to Haiti, hosted a reception at her
residence and President Rene Preval gave a farewell reception Monday in
the group’s honor at the Presidential Palace. But neither of those was
the highlight of the trip. That honor came when Ronald Daniels
was unveiling the architectural plan for an empowerment and visitors
center in Milot. Hundreds of children had gathered for the presentation
and when the drawing was unveiled, they cheered loudly, excited that
descendants of Africans in America had not forgotten about the
descendants of the Africa in Haiti.
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