HAVANA—El Moro is not a neighborhood where tour buses stop. The dirt
roads are filled with loud noise and teeming people, many of them
children. The kids are able to avoid the antiquated cars that race up
and down these backroads, but they cannot escape the dire poverty that
is evident everywhere. In a country that touts universal
education—Cuba has one of the highest literacy rates in the world—and
universal health care, in sections of Havana like this one, there is
little more than universal poverty. Standing in the middle of so
much poverty caused me to reflect on my upbringing in Tuscaloosa, Ala.
I was born in a three-room shack on 15th Street, delivered by an
African-American midwife. The all-Black neighborhood, just across the
railroad tracks, was called “The Bottom.” People called the old, wooden
shacks “shotgun” houses, supposedly because one could stand on the
front porch and shoot straight through the house. When I got
older, I would joke that we had lived in a “B-B gun” house, a step
below a shotgun house. I also joked that we were so poor that when Mama
sliced ham, it was so thin that it had only one side. Amid the
poverty there was laughter. There was also hope, a recognition that
regardless of where one started in life, even in segregated Alabama, we
could overcome our past, we could beat the odds. All it took was God’s
grace, talent, hard work, good teachers, encouragement from caring
adults and the ability to dream. There are many communities in
the United States that look like El Moro, places that time seems to
have bypassed. I have seen such communities in East St. Louis, Ill.,
the Mississippi Delta and even Los Angeles. But this was
different. Maybe it was different because I was in a different country,
seeing people live under a different system. For whatever reason, when
I looked at the beautiful children playing in the streets, I wondered
about their future. Would they, like others before them, return to this
squalor? Would the smart ones score high enough on tests to take
advantage of a free university education? Or, will they turn
out like Leonid Junco, a neighborhood resident who dropped out of
school in the eighth grade and began earning less than $5 a month as an
auto mechanic. He is now unemployed and sells bread on these dusty
roads to earn money. Junco speaks in a matter-of-fact way when he discusses his plight. “It’s
like everywhere else,” he explains. “Some people have more than others.
Some people have more talent, they study and they have better jobs
later.” As my mind drifted back to my childhood, I remembered how
blessed we were. Even in “The Bottom.” We moved into public housing
while I was still in elementary school; after spending most of her life
doing domestic work, Mama got a job at an anti-poverty agency and I was
able to go to colleges on a combination of financial aid: scholarships,
need-based federal grants and student loans. My three sisters graduated
from college and are doing well in their careers. For the past
decade, I have worn a bracelet on my right wrist, the end shaped like a
screen door hook, to remind me of where we came from. I know that I
will never forget my past, but I wear it as a reminder nonetheless. It
reminds me of just how far, with God’s grace, I have come. I
don’t know what will happen to the kids that are growing up in El Moro.
As I look into their eyes, I know that even under optimal
circumstances, they will not have the same chance to advance as a poor
kid growing up in the United States. If they reach the peak of their
profession, they will be limited in their ability to travel. Of
course, they will enjoy certain benefits that kids in the states may
never have—guaranteed access to health care and, if they pass certain
tests, a free college education. The down side—or the up side,
depending on your point-of-view—is that instead of commanding salaries
commensurate with their accomplishments, these future adults will have
meager take-home pay and won’t be able to purchase a home or a car. If
they have dreams of owning a business, those hopes quickly vanish with
the realization that most businesses in Cuba are owned by the
government, including Havana’s best restaurants. When I look at
this community, I realize that even growing up in “The Bottom,” I had
ample opportunities to follow my dreams. Children everywhere, including
Cuba, should have that same chance.
Next Column:
A Reverse Commute to Cuba
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